Fondue in Switzerland; Black Forest Cake in the Black Forest… Tick! And Tick!

We barely noticed crossing the Austria-Germany border. Unfortunately for our memories of Germany it was obviously the time of year to spray the fields with cowdung fertiliser = very aromatic! 

Germany was not surprisingly very similar to Austria… just a little bit more space between houses. We headed straight for Bavaria to the Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles (typical German names are really long and sound much better if you yell them) and we were excited as our expectations were high. Lucky for us it rained most of the day, which meant no long queues for tickets and minimal people in our castle tours. Neuschwanstein was apparently the inspiration for the ‘Disney Castle’ but unfortunately was left unfinished as King Ludwig was deemed insane and ‘passed away’ (potentially suicide) before he completed it. His parents’ castle (Hohenschwangau) was actually more impressive to us as it had actually been used and lived in. Both made for great photos and the area was pretty special.

After exploring the old town of Fussen we found a traditional Bavarian Pub in Schwangau for dinner and entertainment. While Emily got stuck into beef goulash and spatzli with Radlers (beer + lemonade), Tim (as you can imagine) was in heaven with his pork knuckle and mash and a variety of wheat beers. The night came complete with traditional Bavarian music – which looked and sounded like a marching band on a stage wearing Lederhousins and Busty-German dresses.

 

We had been so impressed with the care that the German (and Austrian) people took in keeping their country clean. Everything was neat and tidy and if a garden looked a little messy, there was always someone elbow-deep in dirt getting it up to scratch. So much so that when we stopped behind a car at traffic lights while cycling out of the Bavarian region, we were shocked to see the driver throw his cigarette out the window. As it was in Tim’s reach he politely threw it back into the man’s car and told him he had dropped something. In hindsight, not the best idea when you don’t know how big the person in the car is… when he angrily got out of the car we thankfully were able to sneakily mount the footpath and make our escape – maybe not the smartest idea in the world Tim…

The rest of the day and the following was some of our most beautiful cycling. We followed the Lech river up the valley back into Austria and the town of Lech before heading off to cycle over the Flexen pass. I (Emily) barely even noticed we were at the top after our previous pass achievements, we enjoyed an adrenaline-filled ride downhill to Blundez through single lane tunnels controlled by traffic lights but still somehow with buses coming towards us. Conveniently the tunnels had windows and areas for bikes to stop and take photos.

Our first negative experience of Austria was a cranky old fat man who yelled at us in German when we tried to have a picnic. He apparently owned the random piece of grass across the road from his house… but we did find a place by the river for lunch.

Still heading west we entered Lichtenstein barely noticing the change of country except for the currency. We thought we’d give the little country some time so had dinner, watched the sunset and spent a lovely night on the edge of a cornfield. We noticed the next morning just how small the country is! – entering Switzerland over the Rhine and up past Buchs towards Wildhaus we could see the whole valley and therefore all of Lichtenstein!

Cycle paths through Switzerland were great! So easy to follow. And when the path involves the road there is always a cycle lane. We made our last pass (Wildhaus) and down to Wattwill and Jona, and were enjoying just how green it is in Switzerland! As we rode across the bridge over Lake Zurich however it started to rain… and did not stop. We snuggled in the tent in the forest listening to the steady constant rain and made the wet journey next morning into Wurenlos - our second holiday home for the trip.

After a spectacular shower (everything’s relative), Olivia treated us to a hot lunch and we settled in to complete the dreaded ‘admin’. This took all of the following day as well but as the rain had cleared and Switzerland was turning on the warm, sunny weather for us. We spent the next day exploring Zurich with Olivia and swimming in the river. A few beers, BBQ dinner with both Olivia and Timo and the day was complete.

Following day we embarked on an epic train journey with Uncle Robbie and headed up to Jungfrau. Really something special!! And the weather did not disappoint and we struggled to find any clouds to point out! The weather station had 360deg view of the mountains and glacier, and our favourite… the trek through the snow up to the hut – we were overloaded with stunning natural landscape… it was worth every minute of the long day.

Friday-Saturday our bikes looked a little lonely so we took an overnight ride to Lake Constance/Konstanz. Passing by the Rhinefall was great – they get between 250,000-600,000 litres of water down a second!! Depending on the season... sure looked like we didn’t miss out. Bathing/swimming and then camping on the bank of the Rhine with swans gliding past – the afternoon couldn’t get much better!

After breakfast we rode into Konstanz – slight detour when Emily took a wrong turn across a bridge and ended up in a different country! – thankfully no big deal in this part of the world. Beautiful by the lake but as it was the weekend, was packed with tourists and families out for the markets.

After a small afternoon tea stop at Robbie’s place, we made it home to Wurenlos and were welcomed by Evelyn and Roland who had just returned from France. Amazing hospitality, we really felt like part of the family. Another BBQ and we were both in heaven.

We set out the following day for a long drive over the Klausen-pass. Slightly different scenery – more like the Dolomites we thought… beautiful! We were treated to a traditional Swiss lunch of fish, meat and cheese by the Lake of Lucerne before heading home for a traditional Raclette dinner with the whole family… What can we say – we love cheese so are in our element in Switzerland.

The weather was not slowing down! – so we spent the next day exploring the old town of Baden with Evelyn and the following on a drive to Titisee and Schluchsee through the Black Forest with both Evelyn and Olivia. And yes, you guessed it… We couldn’t go past a piece of black forest cake! The day (and our stay in Wurenlos) was topped off with dinner later that night – an amazing fondue!

We left this morning in the direction of Geneva and are sitting having a picnic dinner by the Aare River. Life is good. By the time we posted this 3 days later life is still good but damp, after the wonderful weather we got our share of rain these last few days. Crossing into France this afternoon.

Gear review

We get a lot of questions about what equipment we are using...hopefully this answers some of those and gives good gear a plug and bad gear the negative it deserves!

http://viventebikes.com/our-bikes/deccan/

Bikes - Vivente world randenuer Deccan model (drop handle bars). These have been incredible...they come ready to go, no accessorising needed just adjust positions and ride. Everything works, nothing has broken and we have ridden on some really nasty roads at times. Steel frames means they can hold fatty's weight and his gear...but we are travelling a hell of a lot lighter than 90% of other cyclists we see touring. Front wheel Dynamo has been fantastic and keeps iPad, iPhone, kindle and camera charged rain hail or shine. A+ value for money and simplicity = easy and reliable!

Ortlieb panniers and handle bar bags...everyone uses these and for good reason...they are strong/tough and waterproof to the extent they did a really good job of holding the entire bottle of walnut liqueur that burst in one! We chose red and yellow for visibility = safety. Choose yellow if you want to be seen.

Clothes - ground effect make great gear! Padded bum pants are A+ and generally survived our harsh treatment. We have 2 sets of riding clothes and a set for off the bike. In the hot weather we rinse out the sweat during lunch break and wear same set until it smells to bad to put on again! We normally get 3+days per set of riding clothes hence hand washing once a week. Ice-breaker jumpers don't smell, are warm and most importantly...look great ;) 

Light weight rain jackets, Northface and Rab brands have been everything we wanted.

SPD shoes are great to ride in. Tim has been using Exustar SPD sandals and found them great. Pros and cons to what ever way you go but sandals get wet while riding in the rain but dry immediately - also less washing and no stinky socks! Emily has been wearing shimano casual shoes with cleats, lasting the distance and comfortable. MUST remember to bring plastic bits to put into place rather than cleat to go hiking in!

Tent -Marmot Tungsten 3 Person has been great. Huge inside (great for rainy days), lightweight and robust build. Pity that it is bright orange as hard to hide! MUST use a 'foot print' as this has kept the tent floor in great condition while the footprint has had a very hard life!

 

Thermarests have been great but then everyone knows this and they deserve their great reputation. We have had x2 holes but rather than buggerise around with glue and official repair kits we used a pre-prepared sticky bicycle tube patch...they will now be included in every hiking trip or car camping trip!

Sleeping sheets = sea to summit 'travel adapters'cool max fabric. Great piece of gear...warm in winter, cool in summer, soft and not sweaty. They stretch (unlike silk) and wash/dry quickly.
Sleeping bag (we only have the one and use it as a down quilt which saves a huge amount of space packing wise) It is a very old Kathmandu bag...15+years and still going! Normally don't like Kathmandu gear as doesn't last...but then this piece has last above and beyond expected.

Lightweight tarp has been essential. We started with Tim's grandparents tripod chairs but they didn't survive...now simply lay out tarp and sit on it...so much better than a chair as it becomes a table and bed for a siesta as well. Keeps you clean and from having prickles and grass in your padded bum pants.

 

Kitchen - we are using Optimus Crux Lite Stove. In preparing for this trip lightweight was important but size does matter...hence this stove folds into the bottom of fuel canister and takes no room. Fuel canisters have been hard to find so next time I would consider an adaptor or petrol stove...but then canisters are so easy! We have the Sea-to-Summit X-Pot collapsing pot/bowl/cup set. It is amazingly small when compacted and works great for our one pot meals. Cups make the wine smell like silicone...so we just drink if from the bottle now! Design flaw with the lid...hasn't survived temperature changes during cooking and cracked. I would buy the set again if rectified...in fact would buy again and make own lid! Sea-to-summit will no doubt fix this flaw although I still haven't got confirmation they received my emails.

 

Other bits'n'bobs - sea-to-summit make the most amazing accessories for travelling. The "kitchen sink" is fabulous, collapsible dry bag day packs are waterproof and so small light comfortable. Bottles and containers are great...drill out the holes in the shakers to make suitable for the size ingredient.

Head torch we use black diamond and love it except for habit of turning on in pack the panniers and is flat by that night...it is the lock model...clearly it doesn't lock properly and they need to redesign. Batteries last forever when it doesn't switch on by accident.

 

 

Electronics - kindle, iPad, iPhone, android, Lumix LX7 camera, SSD hard drive, ASUS computer. iStuff is crap...worst of all electronics at getting wifi signals and maintaining them and don't get me started on trying to load stuff on or off them....Grrr!
Time again we would take x2 smart phones, laptop and x2 Kindles, SSD hard drive (data backup) + LUMIX camera.
Computer weights nothing, flat and sleek and has SSD hard drive and full-metal-jacket so survives bouncing in the pannier.

 

Navigation = maps.me this app is AWESOME. First it is free...I'd pay for it! The maps are downloaded and you can access them offline (we don't have mobile data connection) Unbelievable how accurate they are, shitty little side roads, walking tracks and everything is on it. Better by miles than most GPS units I have used.

Sunglasses - OPSM Alice Springs supplies and fits our eyewear... Consider wind as well as rain (ie a clear or light tinted pair - rains hurts at speed!)

Gloves Exustar make great set that go well above your wrist and protect from sun while stretched out position riding. Love the little tabs on my fox brand gloves that help getting gloves on/off...best design feature ever!